Movado, one of the most renowned Swiss watchmaking firms, derives its name from Esperanto, meaning "always in motion". Today, let us delve deeper into the history of Movado, a true gem of Swiss watchmaking. The story begins in 1871 when the Ditesheim family settled in Switzerland, specifically in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Their relocation was driven by dual motives: firstly, to escape the Franco-Prussian War, and secondly, to fulfill the dream of two brothers to establish a watchmaking house.
Achille Ditesheim
After five years of horological studies, Achille Ditesheim started with the establishment of a watchmaking laboratory which grew exponentially to nearly 80 employees by 1897 (for comparison, Jaeger-LeCoultre had about a hundred people at the same time).
Like many startups, the three brothers initially worked as casemakers and assemblers, sourcing movements from third-party vendors to incorporate into their pocket watches.
True visionaries in their approach, they made massive investments, notably in acquiring machinery powered by electricity. While this may seem trivial today, such acquisitions significantly boosted Movado’s productivity and made it independent in procuring its components.
Certainly, besides the industrial innovations, L.A. & I. Ditesheim manufacturers (Leopold, Achille, and Isidore Ditesheim) proved they were also master horologists. This was evidenced by numerous patents filed at the time. One of the most significant came from Isidore Ditesheim who invented the "Polyplan" movement in 1912, a curved movement, unlike the typical flat ones, with parts laid out on three different levels. Models equipped with this movement, though hard to find since only 1500 pieces were produced between 1912 and 1917, quickly became collectibles among brand enthusiasts. This innovation was later followed by the "Curviplan" movements, produced between 1917 and 1940.
The Emergence of Pocket Watches
Movado began by making pocket watches, which were true emblems of the Swiss watch group and saw a major breakthrough in 1926 with the presentation of the Ermeto. Although less common today, the main challenge with a pocket watch was its fragility due to its glass-cased body. Movado's ingenious watchmakers tackled this issue by proposing a pocket watch that could be hermetically sealed within a retractable metal case. To maintain an attractive aesthetic, these cases were often adorned with luxurious leathers such as lizard or crocodile skin.
Experimenting with Iconic Timepieces
After dominating the pocket watch market, Movado continued its momentum by experimenting with iconic contemporary timepieces; the wristwatch in its various forms, each carrying in-house movements. The first to emerge were two chronographs in 1938 and 1939, marked by the release of the M90 and the M95.
In 1938, the group also introduced the Calendrograf, now commonly known as the "Movado triple calendar," which allowed a quick glance to reveal the current date, day, and month.
After industrializing this model already featuring four complications, the group based in La Chaux-de-Fonds decided to implement the poetic complication of a "moon phase" through its Celestograf produced between 1947 and 1954.
Innovations and Partnerships
The house, ever in motion, experimented and showcased its expertise by producing its first automatic movements with the Calendomatic.
Movado’s strength lies not only in its craftsmanship but also in its ability to partner with talented artisans, providing complete timepieces with impeccable finishes. Notable among them, Movado teamed up with François Borgel, regarded as one of the greatest case makers of the 20th century, who supplied brands like Patek Philippe, Mido, and Ulysse Nardin. Cases by François Borgel were distinguished by his trademark of the letters F.B accompanied by a key.
Another significant partnership was between Movado and Zenith, allowing both groups to benefit from each other's technical prowess in their watches. This included Movado using a Zenith calibre in some of its chronographs, while Zenith had access to Movado’s renowned Museum watch design by Nathan Horwitt, as well as some of their in-house calibres.
Global Recognition
Beyond collaborations with renowned horological manufacturers, Movado has made a significant mark at some of the world’s top retailers, leading to the existence of numerous Movado watches with "double signatures". These models are found at luxury retailers such as Cartier, Hermès, and across the Atlantic at "Tiffany & Co." This represents a certain level of quality assurance, as these retailers agree to integrate Movado watches into their offerings, symbolizing the rigor and excellence of the group based in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Today, the Movado brand still remains somewhat underrated in the vintage watch market. Feel free to explore the various models available, as they truly represent high-quality products, both in terms of the craftsmanship of their movements and their casings.
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